Kashmir
An Undeliverable Postcard
Snow-capped peaks and crystalline lakes of almost unbearable beauty.
Soldiers, checkpoints, and barbed wire that make the air feel heavy.
Paradise and battlefield—held within the same landscape.
This is one of the world’s most beautiful, and most unsettled, corners.
Soldiers, checkpoints, and barbed wire that make the air feel heavy.
Paradise and battlefield—held within the same landscape.
This is one of the world’s most beautiful, and most unsettled, corners.
POSTCARD
FROM
KASHMIR
FROM
KASHMIR
—Agha Shahid Ali, “Postcard from Kashmir,”
from The Half-Inch Himalayas (1987)
Kashmir shrinks into my mailbox,
my home a neat four by six inches.
I always loved neatness. Now I hold
the half-inch Himalayas in my hand.
This is home.
And this the closest
I'll ever be to home. When I return,
the colors won't be so brilliant,
the Jhelum's waters so clean,
so ultramarine. My love
so overexposed.
And my memory will be a little
out of focus, in it
a giant negative, black
and white, still undeveloped.
Source: https://www.brinkerhoffpoetry.org/poems/postcard-from-kashmir
KASHMIR
TODAY
TODAY
Kashmir is a disputed region divided among areas controlled by India, Pakistan, and China. Armed clashes and border skirmishes continue to break out from time to time.
Under British rule, Kashmir’s boundaries with Tibet and Xinjiang were never formally settled. These uncertain borders have kept India, Pakistan, and China locked in dispute for more than seventy years.
Many Kashmiris do not primarily identify as Indian or Pakistani. They see themselves first as Kashmiri.
Despite the tensions, Kashmir’s striking landscapes and foreign allure continue to attract adventurous travelers.
Among India’s states and territories, Kashmir performs relatively well on human development indicators, while its per capita income falls in the middle range.
KASHMIR
Indian-Administered Area
The former administrative name for the Indian-administered part of Kashmir was the State of Jammu and Kashmir, which included Jammu and Kashmir as well as Ladakh. Since 1954, under Article 370 of the Indian Constitution, the state had special autonomous status and enjoyed a high degree of self-rule. This autonomy was revoked in 2019, and the state was reorganized into the following two Union Territories.
UNION TERRITORY OF JAMMU AND KASHMIR
In August 2019, the special autonomous status of the State of Jammu and Kashmir was revoked by the Indian government, and the region became a Union Territory under direct central administration.
UNION TERRITORY OF LADAKH
Ladakh was traditionally home to Tibetan communities and is often described as “India’s Little Tibet.” Its terrain is rugged and forbidding, with an average elevation of more than 3,000 meters. China claims parts of Ladakh, and India’s decision to make Ladakh a Union Territory further angered Beijing.
Pakistani-Administered Area
AZAD JAMMU AND KASHMIR
“Azad” means “free.” The region is a self-governing state with its own president, prime minister, legislative assembly, Kashmir Council, supreme court and official flag. Its Neelum Valley stretches for about 200 kilometers, with snow-covered peaks rising more than 4,000 meters above sea level.
GILGIT-BALTISTAN
Gilgit-Baltistan has its own assembly, cabinet, government council, and administrative departments. It has a degree of self-government, but it is not formally represented in Pakistan’s national parliament. The region’s greatest resource is its natural landscape: magnificent valleys, open plains, and towering peaks that continue to draw visitors. Its capital is Gilgit, and its largest city is Skardu.
Chinese-Administered Area
AKSAI CHIN
Often described as more like the surface of the moon, Aksai Chin is a barren, uninhabited high-altitude desert. The environment is harsh: bitterly cold, thin-aired, and extremely difficult for human habitation. During the 1962 Sino-Indian War, Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru famously described Aksai Chin as a place where “not a blade of grass grows.” Yet both India and China claim the region. It is currently administered by China, while India maintains that it is part of the Himalayan region of Ladakh.
SHAKSGAM TRACT
The Shaksgam Valley forms the main part of the Trans-Karakoram Tract. It lies near Pakistani-administered Kashmir and the Siachen Glacier. In a boundary agreement in 1963, Pakistan ceded the area to Beijing. Because of its remoteness, harsh terrain, and location along a sensitive military frontier disputed by China, India, and Pakistan, access to the area is heavily restricted.
PICTURESQUE
Kashmir’s Beautiful Landscapes
Twelve unforgettable scenes—which would you most want to visit?
Set against the backdrop of the Himalayas, Dal Lake is known as the “Jewel of Kashmir.”
Asia’s largest tulip garden, planted across terraced slopes.
Built by Mughal emperors along the shores of Dal Lake, these gardens were designed to evoke the gardens of paradise described in the Quran. Their fountains, waterways, and flowerbeds reflect the garden traditions of Persia and Central Asia.
During the British colonial period, Kashmir’s princely rulers did not allow the British to purchase property. In response, the British built houseboats on Dal Lake. Today, these houseboats have become one of the region’s most distinctive and beloved places for travelers to stay.
Also known as “the Switzerland of India,” Pahalgam is known for its snow-covered peaks, pine forests, rivers, and postcard-like scenery. Yet the area’s beauty is not untouched by unrest. In April 2025, militants attacked Hindu men here, killing 26 people—a sobering reminder that this is not a place at peace.
Also known as Pangong Lake, its Tibetan name means “long-necked swan.” Its waters are an even deeper blue than the sky.
The capital of Ladakh, Leh sits high in the mountains. The city carries a strong Tibetan influence, the historical legacy of the Ladakhi kingdom, and a rich collection of monasteries, palaces, and other cultural heritage sites.
Also known as the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway, the Karakoram Highway passes through dramatic cliffs, narrow mountain roads, high-altitude cold deserts, snowy peaks, and raw, untouched landscapes.
A meeting place of forests, snowy peaks, glaciers, and ancient Buddhist heritage sites, Gilgit is now the capital of Pakistani-administered Gilgit-Baltistan.
Three of the world’s longest non-polar glaciers are found in the Karakoram Range: the Biafo, Baltoro, and Batura glaciers.
Kashmir Is Beautiful
— But Think Carefully Before You Go
— But Think Carefully Before You Go
This is not travel advice. It is the formal warning issued by many governments.
Countries such as the United States, Canada, Australia, the United Kingdom, and Singapore advise their citizens to avoid travel to parts of Kashmir because of the high risk of terrorism, armed conflict, kidnapping, and civil unrest. These warnings apply especially to areas near the India-Pakistan border, including the Line of Control, as well as some major tourist areas.
ARTS & CRAFTS
Kashmir’s Handmade Treasures
Craftsmanship, everyday objects, and woven traditions
Saffron is one of the world’s most precious spices. It takes around 16,000 saffron flowers to produce just 100 grams of dried stigmas. Kashmiri saffron is grown mainly in the high-altitude fields of Pampore. Known for its quality and rarity, it has a rich aroma, deep red color, and high crocin content.
The pheran is a traditional Kashmiri outer garment. Men’s styles are usually simple and plain, while women’s versions are more elaborate, often decorated with intricate embroidery.
Kashmiri carpets are soft to the touch and richly textured. They are known for their intricate, free-flowing woven patterns, carefully hand-knotted by skilled artisans using techniques passed down through generations.
Papier-mâché is a craft introduced to Kashmir from Persia in the fourteenth century by the Sufi saint Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani. Paper pulp is mixed with adhesive, shaped, lacquered, and then painted with decorative patterns. The finished pieces include boxes, hanging ornaments, picture frames, and other small objects.
Pashmina shawls are among Kashmir’s most beloved luxury textiles. Made from fine cashmere, they are soft, light, and warm. They come in many colors and are often decorated with delicate embroidered patterns.
Kashmiri kahwa is a fragrant tea blended with spices from the Kashmir Valley, such as cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, and cloves. The tea brews to a golden color and can be sweetened with sugar or honey, then served with toasted almonds, walnuts, or other nuts. Its flavor is warm, refined, and richly aromatic.
Zalakdozi is a chain-stitch embroidery technique used on curtains, pillowcases, carpets, clothing, and other textiles. Worked with heavy woolen yarn, it creates rich and intricate designs, including floral patterns and climbing vine motifs.